The Drive Home

It was a long drive. But we took the time to stop in Guernsey so I could see the wagon ruts in the rock. Wow. It was'nt just the one, they were all over that hill. Then we drove and drove, and when we came into the valley I cried. Not because I was glad to be home, but because our adventure was over. What a journey.

I am too tired now to try to write the conclusion, but I'll try to do so later. I feel changed. I know it wont' last, but I wish I could find some way to hold on to the incredible goodness I've felt --both about Laura her family, but also about this wonderful country and the goodness of the people in it.

Badlands and Mt Rushmore

We headed into the Badlands. I have never really been interested in this park. Brown rock doesn't intrigue me much. I suppose visiting in the middle of the day during the heat of summer didn't help too much either. But no, I really wasn't too interested, and we drove through pretty quickly. The few very short walks I took I got too hot and the vistas were not much different than we could see from the road. So all in all I spent too much time here.

I got roped into a ranger talk at the fossil stop, Louisa didn't know there was a bathroom there and had an accident, we spent time waiting for her to clean up and then drove on a fairly wild goose chase trying to see the prairie dogs and buffalo supposed to be in the west section of the park.

Finally, trying to head west we ended up going north and got stuck in Wall SD. The heart of Wall is Wall Drug. This is the epitome of tourist trap. Fun in a funky sort of way it is shop after shop of stuff to buy simply because you are near a national park so you should buy something. We ended up eating across the street, which was okay. But between the park and Wall we spent about three hours we really didn't need to spend.

And so when we finally arrived at Keystone and found the museum where the Carrie Ingalls Swanzey exhibit was supposed to be we found the museum closed at 3pm and it was 4:15. It was not a good way to end our quest and pilgrimage. We sat there on a park bench letting the disappointment have full sway so we could let it go and move on.

Moving on included heading to Mt Rushmore for one last stop. Having done the whole thing last time we visited we weren't too interested in more than just a look and an ice cream.

The real attraction was Custer State Park Wildlife loop. This we had not done last time, so taking the winding and twisting Iron Mt road to the park we drove south through the park. And YES this Was the right way to end our trip. We saw tons of prairie dogs, and then we saw a few buffalo and then we were stopped by a buffalo migration. We sat on the road for about half an hour as buffalo after buffalo crossed the road. There were the mama buffalo with their cute little calfs, and the single yearling buffalo, one after another. Then at the end was the majestic master of the herd, the huge and mighty bull. Wow, was all we could say. It was Fantastic!

But wait, there was more. Just a turn down the road was another herd right along the road, we were blessed, and grateful. But wait, there was more. Groups of Antelope, some with horns.

But wait, there was more. We came to a hill and there was a traffic jam and a herd of wild donkeys. People were petting them and feeding them and we could not get through. One even stuck his head in the car and the car started driving and the donkey kept up with the car with his head in the window trotting down the road. We were bursting out laughing. It was a great drive, well worth the admission price and a great way to end the day and trip.

We couldn't get to Guernsey State park to camp so paid for a hotel in Lusk. Where you ask? Well it was the absolute best hotel of the trip. Very nice in this little town in the middle of nowhere on a cross roads between roads that go nowhere. They were so friendly and nice.

DeSmet

So then we drove into town. I don't know why but this town confused me. I could never figure out which direction to turn or where I was. But we did manage to find the Little house Memorial Society. Don't know why they are situated where they are. They are in an old house with the lot next door consisting of the Surveyors home (removed from its original location a mile east), the replicated Brewster school in which Laura had originally taught school at age 15, and the original DeSmet School where Laura and Carrie had attended. We had a tour of them all. The Surveyors house was fantastic, exactly as Laura described it. So amazing. The school was in the process of being returned to the original condition, but was still a work in progress.

Then after the tour there we drove in a convoy across town to the home Pa had built in town after Laura was married and where he, Ma, and Mary had lived the rest of their lives. Carrie and Grace had lived there until they were married. It was a simple and yet sturdy home. Better built I thought than the one Almanzo had built in Missouri. But maybe just because it was built more cohesively instead of the organic kind of home Rocky Ridge is.

We went to the cemetery to pay our respects and saw again the grandmother and her three cute little grandchildren who we seemed to follow everywhere. I left the other citron candle at Pa's headstone. It felt fitting, though it did not affect me as Mansfield had.

We took a long drive out to the twin lakes, Lake Henry and Thompson. Thompson is HUGE, they were waterskiing on it and summer homes sprinkled its edges. This place in South Dakota is full of surprises, so different from what I envisioned. There is a stillness here even now, though not like Laura would have experienced. On the north side of town is the site of the homestead Almanzo had claimed. Here we found a sign to commemorate the birthplace of Rose Wilder Lane. Rose was an intriguing woman. She apparently requested the "First four years" to be published even though it is not where Laura ended her tale (Laura had written a letter to a DeSmet friend {and found in the Memorial Society museum} saying with the publication of Those Happy Golden Years her books were complete. She also said something to the effect: the facts are correct with fiction included to provide interest and improve the story). I'm sure Rose wanted her birth to be included in the story as it rightly should be.

We were almost finished with the Laura story. But the last two pieces could not be included. We were much too late today to see inside the South Dakota capitol for the exhibit about the Ingalls. Though we did reach Pierre before sunset and enjoyed the peaceful capitol grounds. (The other piece was the exhibit about Carrie in Keystone.) The plan had been to hope for a campspot in the Badlands, but instead we stopped in Kadoka at a hotel. I wanted to see the Badlands in the daylight, and it was late and I was too tired to make up camp anywhere.

Ingalls Homestead

I was up with the sun after a wonderful night in the "covered wagon" It was really modeled after an 1894 sheepherders wagon, but it was was definitely more comfortable than the tent and we were certainly glad to be in it when the rain came. The sunrise was glorious and the day looked to be a good one.

I had wandered about the homestead before bed last night, so knew about where everything was. We got dressed, packed up and then began wandering around on our own. First was the dugout. Though they had never lived in one here it was the most authentic of the many we had seen. Then there was an original claim shanty from someone elses claim. Tiny and flimsy, hard to see a family of six living there. Then there was the corner with the old cottonwoods which Laura had said Pa had planted when she last visited DeSmet. The hay barn was great. We saw the rooster and a hen out for their morning walk, a mother and three very little kittens just waking up, it felt the most real some how.

Then the little house, rebuilt to the original specifications. It was a wonderful house with a nice size front room with plenty of room for the organ. Then the kitchen and two back bedrooms as well as the whole attic. Very comfy and inviting. We ended up at the barn about 9 am when they had told me the wagon rides would begin. But no one was there so we walked around the farm ourselves. Out to the wheat field and the corn field to the prairie grasses and down to the school house which we explored and enjoyed. All of this was completely by ourselves.

We returned to the office and turned in our key, did some shopping and then I mentioned I was sad to have missed the wagon and wondered if they didn't come on Sunday or if they came later. Oh she said, they started at 10. Well dang. Should we go try to do it? I wanted to try twisting haysticks,,, ah what the heck we needed to do it all right? So we went down, they were twisting rope, and grinding wheat, but not twisting haysticks.

We waited about half an hour for the wagon to take us to the school house. It was worth staying for. The woman driving the horses was great, we all got a chance to hold the reins, the teacher at the school was great, even disciplined the man on the water brigade for not bringing in the water. Very fun stuff. I am absolutely impressed with what they have done with the original land. It had stayed in tact through 30 owners, 160 acres. They have attempted to be very precise with where the buildings are placed and their size and materials. It is a very authentic experience. We walked the land that Laura walked and touched the trees that Pa had planted (thousands he planted, only a half dozen remain.) The slough was still there, just not as big. It was walking in deja vu. Everything we'd read was in fact real.

Plum Creek

I'm sitting on the prairie homestead in DeSmet SD of Ma and Pa Ingalls. We had a gorgeous sunset. It is a gentle night with a soft wind blowing. It is cool tonight and not sticky. Some bird is calling in the bush. The neighbor's fire is low and fragrant. I feel exhaltant. This was a good place to end our Laura journey.

We began the day on Plum Creek. The home of the dugout. And later the "boughten house". We got there early enough that we were able to enjoy it by ourselves for awhile. It was beautiful. The prairie flowers were blooming, the creek water was cool- I know cause I walked in it. We spent some time reading and enjoyed imagining Laura and her family walking up and down the banks.

We went back into town to see the bell Pa helped to pay for. The festival in the city park had begun and we bought some souvenirs and ate corn dogs and funnel cakes.
We weren't going to spend much time in the museum or store but of course there was so much to see that we did any way. This museum actually had quite a bit of information well displayed chronologically with the books. We are getting a little Laura'd out since so much is the same information. And yet it is still so intriguing.

Heading west we drove across the flat Minnesota Plains. Planted mostly in corn but some soy beans as well. We stopped in Pipestone NM where we were able to see the flip side of the white settlement. The first Americans lost their home when the treaty was signed and the homestead act opened up the Dakotah territory. An important part of the treaty included the provision that they could come here to get the stone for their pipes. They still mine it. We didnt have much time before they closed but I was glad to see the other side to homesteaders like the Ingalls. They had free land because the Indians lost it.

The drive into South Dakota was easy and greeted with the many lakes in the area. We were there in perfect time to sign into our lodging and get to the pageant. It was an interesting contrast to the one in Walnut Grove. Walnut Grove's was bigger, more cast and audience, longer much better produced and had special effects. But each were intriguing in the end due to the story. It is endearing and enduring.

We are not as enthusiastic about it all as we were in Kansas and Missouri. One more heavy duty Laura day. And then the long drive home. We have been immersed in the simple life that Laura had as she grew up. Entranced as well by this heartland of America. It is a fantastic place still.

Walnut grove

First stop Burr Oak. The Master's hotel where Charles and Caroline lived and worked for a time was still there. They had one room to sleep all five of them, just off the main kitchen and dining area. Caroline was responsible to feed up to thirty people every meal. No wonder they didn't stay long.

On to Spring Valley. This is a nice town where Almanzo's parents the Wilders lived. They had a prosperous farm. Royal had a store and is buried in the cemetery. Laura and Almanzo lived here a year after the disasters in South Dakota. We took a tour of the church they attended and at the end I rang the bell.

I blame it on the heat. I hadn't even thought about gas. Hadn't filled up since Lacrosse and sure enough a few miles outside of Welcome MN I felt the car lurch, and then lurch again. We had run out. I really had no idea where I was. If it weren't for the little blue button on my phone telling me where I was I wouldn't have been able to tell AAA where to find me. By the time the AAA guy came I was feeling very bad. It was so stupid, so stupid. At least I had been able to coast to an overpass so we had shade on that continually hot day. That took an hour of our already short day. I'm thankful that is all it was.

We still had time though to see the sod houses. They were interesting to see but just as wonderful was the prairie they were restoring. What a cool thing

We also had plenty of time to check into our hotel in Tracy, get dinner and buy tickets to the pageant. It felt like the Manti pageant with everyone driving into a pasture to park. They had a singing group to entertain us before hand. The pageant itself was interesting. A different take on the Walnut grove story than the books or tv show. It was the perspective of those left behind who have made it their home. They included all that happened to the Ingalls in Walnut Grove both times they lived there. Some was stereotypical men and women conflict, Caroline was more complaining than it usually depicted, and it was more faith filled than I would have expected. Also some inside jokes which had the locals laughing.

Later, at the festival the next day, we sat next to some ladies who asked about our stop. They said the fire scene had real fire. That was impressive. There was a lot that happened to the Ingalls here and it was impressive to hear about it all in the place it happened.

Pepin

Finally a fairly easy day. We drove into LaCrosse trying still to decide which river trip to take. The biggest factor ended up being when each left. The paddle wheeler left later so we took the Explorer. It was nice being out on the river. We saw a few eagles and turtles and they pulled up water for us to see the little stuff too like nymphs and worms. The middle of the day on a hot hot day is not the best time to see much else.

Then we drove up the great river road admiring the views of that fantastic river to Pepin, Laura's birthplace. The final push was on. We were finally to the heart of the trip. I was glad though that we had seen the little house in Kansas and where they ended up in Mansfield early in the trip. There was a special magic there that we were missing after such a long time on the road and the heat and humidity taking its toll on us.

Pepin is a small town. We drove right through it before we realized we'd missed it. There was a small museum where we first met the three girls and their grandmother. We met them over and over the next week. After a short visit to the museum which had a few new things, but many rehashed from the other two museums we had seen, we took the seven mile drive to the actual birthplace. It is beautiful country absolutely green rolling hills with woods still covering many hilltops. The home has been reconstructed which is appreciated. Louisa wanted to know which trees Mary and Laura had played under. There were several that could have worked. We read about the mad dog and we read about the time Ma slapped a bear, saw again the girls dressed in their prairie dresses and bonnets and their grandmother. We went to Lake Pepin and had a late picnic. It was too hot to really enjoy. And then our Pepin stop was complete.

We stopped at Nelson's creamery for cheese curds. Drove along the river for one last time then struck out across Minnesota for the Root river valley and south to our campsite on the upper Iowa river. It was hot and sticky. I worried about sleeping. I was finally so tired of the heat. I bought a newspaper for the headline, "no relief for the Midwest". Hottest temps on record every where we went. It really was unrelenting.

But then the fireflies came out. One flew right around me so I could see it and then it blinked it's light. Suddenly I didn't mind camping. I took a walk to the river where I saw a frog and was thankful again for the amazing opportunity we had and the beautiful country we had been able to see.

Fourth of July

This day had been so hard to plan for but I'm pleased with the way it turned out. The plan worked, Yeah :-) Independence is a pretty good size town with a larger river flowing through and a large old mill that was the economic mainstay for years and now being renovated. We drove into town, parked by the mill, crossed the river, and walked down the street to find a spot to watch the parade. We found a great spot in the shade, set up our chairs and waited. People were lined up and down the street sometimes three deep. It was a big deal. The parade started off great with three little planes flying over and the color guard and old veterans and the block long the high school marching band with the flag girls behind them. Then came all the fire trucks from six or seven different towns. There were probably fifty all spiffy and shining and all the firemen and their kids waving and throwing candy. The parade went down hill from there. There were the politicians and the businesses. They did have the teacher of the year and a few people like that but they were just in cars. I think the only royalty was Miss Pork. The exciting entrees were the old tractors. There was not one float or clown. It was cars or trucks one after another advertising their business and throwing out candy. It was better than Halloween, the kids had brought bags to carry it in. Meanwhile even in the shade I was dripping sweat.

Then we drove to Dyersville see the Field of Dreams. It was a busy day. A large group was there playing ball when we got there and having a good time. It was exactly like the movie. So wierd. The corn was up. The grass was green (which meant it had been watered as all the other grass in the area was dry and brown). We sat in the stands and watched the game. I bought some shirts for the boys and we moved on.

We hit the Mississippi river and it is sooo beautiful. I am in awe. We drove up the Iowa side for awhile taking the time for pictures at Gothenburg dam and lock as well as Pikes Peak park. We arrived at Effigy Mounds with enough time for the two mile trail. It was hot but shaded with the eastern forest. That was wonderful for me to walk through. The mounds were interesting, but difficult to really see and comprehend. A different time of year might help when the vegetation isn't so tall. Then we crossed at Prairie du Chen and drove up the Wisconsin side. It was huge and bordered with tall and steep bluffs. When the ice sheets melted during the last glaciation the huge torrents had carved down the sides of the river channel. I thought the Columbia river was amazing. But this was almost too much to grasp.

Arriving in Lacrosse we had time to settle into our hotel before heading back into town to find a spot to park and get to the park and find a place to put our blanket. We found a great spot and had wonderful fireworks. While we had been driving we were listening to the Little Town in the Prairie book. They celebrate Fourth of July in that book with a speech and the reading of the Declaration of Independence It was good to hear it on the right day. Happy Independence Day!

Nauvoo

We tried so hard to get to the temple for the eight o clock session. I don't think we were up early enough anyway but we were stymied on two additional accounts. We didn't know where to park and then we didn't know where to go in. We walked all around it. There wasn't an entrance. Finally we saw the Arrival center and went in there. That wasn't it either but they did tell us you walk in the front door. Probably the only temple you do that. So we went back, ate breakfast and then tried again. We were glad we did. It was so nice. I thought of Howard and Martha Jane Coray getting their endowments here in those sad days after the martyrdom. I felt like we'd come full circle. I asked if we could see the baptistry. We could and it was nice to hear a bit about it from the man who took us down.

We drove around Nauvoo a bit but didn't stop anywhere. It was good to see it again but I was glad we had been able to take the kids earlier.

Then it was the drive to Independence. Other than driving through the Amish area and looking for barn quilts and stopping to shop there I don't remember doing anything else.

Mansfield

Today was all about Mansfield. After a nice breakfast we drove into town first to see the cemetery where Laura, Almanzo and Rose were buried. My heart was touched to think they were really there. Not some fictional characters but real people who lived real lives with all the struggles and joys. I wanted to leave something so we rummaged through the car and settled on one of our citron candles. It wasnt much. It just felt like a good thing to do.

We also stopped briefly at the local library which does have a small display of pictures.

Then we were on to the main event --Rocky Ridge farm. Laura and Almonzo and seven year old Rose came here after disaster in South Dakota, a year of recovery in Spring Valley, a year in Florida which they didn't like and back to South Dakota-- which was too cold for Almanzo. Laura said they were trying to find a happy medium. This must have worked as they stayed over fifty years.

The tour was great. They talk fast trying to get as much information in as possible. The home was custom built by Almanzo. If you didn't know what a hard worker and the good quality he produced you could see it in the workmanship of the house. It was marvelous. The kitchen and dining room, the bedroom and writing area and finally their front room which was beautiful with the music area and library. So many of the things they loved are there. You can see them and their personalities. We loved it.


We spent more time in the museum where I completely missed Pa's fiddle the first time, then we drove to the the Rock house. Rose had built this for $11,000 and they lived here for eight years. But when Rose left they moved back to the other one. You can see why. This one was soulless. Beautiful and modern and utterly lacking personality.

And then our time was done. We ate a picnic lunch overlooking Almanzo's goat shed and then were on to Nauvoo. We managed to get inside the Capitol in Jefferson City but not enough time before closing to see the Laura statue in the hall of fame. We reached Hannibal and Mark Twain's boyhood home at sunset. It seemed like a fun place to explore. And then it was dark as we drove up the beautiful river road south of Nauvoo. All in all though a great day.

Little House/ Branson

One of these days we will actually get to every thing on our itinerary. But it wasn't today. On Sundays the Little House didn't open til one. We were going to go back anyway to see it again, I wanted to walk to the creek. But Louisa wanted to see the inside and more importantly to check out the gift shop. So Oklahoma and Arkansas were scratched off the plan. We had a show in Branson at 5:30 so needed to leave by 1:30 to get there I figured.

We took our time, enjoyed a nice visit with our host Frank,tried to get to church but got there after the sacrament so didn't stay, and got out to the Little House about 12:15. We were going to take the walk to the creek. When we arrived however the lady was there early and opened the cabin. Great I thought we could be done by 1. Yeah right. It is amazing how much time those little places needed especially the gift shop. In the Little House there was the bed to examine and the little china lady to exclaim over and the gun and the fireplace. Then the little post office was so cute. And then the schoolhouse had the McGuffey readers and slates. In the gift shop was what looked like the original page from the census of 1880 where the Ingalls were listed. That was exciting to see. They had closed the path to the creek since it was so hot. So that was disappointing but we were out of time anyway. It was after two.

So we chose the fastest route to Branson....and it took us two miles to the border of Oklahoma. We had to go at least to say we'd been there. Then it was hightail it through the secondary roads to Branson. We could tell when we got to the Ozarks. The hills showed up. It was like a roller coaster,so much fun.

When we got to Branson my IPhone directions failed me for the first time. Maybe I should have tried Siri. Just thought of that. Anyway Dixie Stampede was nowhere nears where it sent us. MAYBE if we had driven right there we could have made the 5:30 show. But we had to stop for directions deal with traffic and figure out the map we were given. We got there at 5:45. It was that extra walk back to the gift shop for a picture of the census and the drive through Coffeyville to see Oklahoma dangit.

Did I mention that our gas light was blinking? I'd stopped for gas earlier and had to go inside to prepay and was thinking 10 gallons and said $10. So thankfully Siri found us a gas station before we ran out. Traveling. I think we may finally be getting the hang of it.

The Ozarks are beautiful. Definitely one place I would love to come back. The show was fabulous. It started off with a juggler who definitely put on a show. Then we were all shown into a thousand people rodeo arena. Then there were trick riders and wagon races and horseback square dances and magic and a rodeo clown and audience participation races and loggers contests. In the contest between the north and the south it was 8 to 4 for our side till that last flag passing when the other side took it all. All the time they were feeding us- all finger licking good food. Soup and cheese biscuit, Cornish game hen and pork loin, corn and potato and to finish it off the absolute best flakiest apple turnover. And then of course the picture which was too good to pass up. All in all a great way to end the day.

Except of course the two hour drive to Mansfield. Thankfully it was more like an hour since I was struggling to stay awake.